Churches of Lucknow
They stand witness to the tumultous times of the 19th century and beyond- the churches constructed by the British in the city of Lucknow.
It was an early morning of Friday, coincidentally Good Friday, that I had the urge to explore the Churches of Lucknow. After dropping my husband to the Golf course in the Cantt, to play his game in peace, I couldnt have found a better place to have started my quest from !!
The churches in Lucknow are many, but a few stand out. Some are comforting in their simplicity and some imposing in their european- gothic facade with arched windows and towers. Some are historically significant, some offer a place of solace , from the soldiers of yore to the seekers today.
Lucknow’s story of Awadh Nawabi grandeur is equally intertwined with European and later British influence. With the increasing influence of the British Residents and the growing Christian population, a need for Churches was felt from the early 19th century. The first Anglican Church in Lucknow, St Mary’s church was built inside the Residency. This and other Churches built at the time were however destroyed during the mutiny. The churches which came up subsequently, stand today and give us a glimpse of the times. Some remain in service, some left desolate…
1. St. Pauls Church
As I mentioned, my search fortuitously started from the Cantonment itself which still retains the remnants of the Colonial era. Ironically, Indians now live and work from where once they could not dare enter !!
St. Pauls church is in the Cantonment itself, though it is not easy to find, relying solely on Google maps, which kept navigating me to the more visible All Saints Garrison church !
Since I am the persistent sort, I traced it to St Paul’s school within the compounds of which it stands. Built by the Irish Reverend Father William Gleeson in 1861, to serve the needs of the Catholic soldiers of the Cantonment, it is perhaps the oldest surviving Church in Lucknow. Still in service today, it is beautiful in its simplicity .
2. St. Joseph’s Cathedral
Nobody can miss the Cathedral as it stands at the heart of Hazratganj, the market area synonymous with Lucknow. The setting up of this Church too is credited to Father William Gleeson. Completed in 1862, it was found to be weak in its structure and therefore demolished and built again in 1970.
Unique in its architecture, it is a grand crescent shaped building. The figure of an open armed Lord Jesus beckons on its facade, flanked by a wide staircase. It is arguably the biggest church in Lucknow, an oasis of peace in the hustle bustle of the market.
3. Church of the Epiphany
This is a stunning red church built in a Gothic style with turrets, arched windows and an imposing five storeyed tower.
In 1858 land was allocated in the ‘Zahoorbaksh’ compound in Lalbagh for the Church. To begin with services were conducted in a ‘Chapelghar’ before the Church was built to replace it. The foundation stone of the Church was laid by Mrs Inglis, wife of the Commissioner of Awadh, in Nov 1875. Completed in 1877, it was another Church in the service of the Anglican community of Lucknow. Today it comes under the Church of North India.
As the current Presbyter in charge Rev E.F . Baksh informed that the tower has three bells , which in earlier times were rung in a particular symphony. However, nobody knows how to play that music anymore, and they are rung simply as bells. Inside still stands, a wood altar from where the first priest Reverend W.T Storres gave his sermon.
The surrounding tall trees, the moving shadows, the pathways and the beautiful red Gothic structure could make one feel anywhere in Europe. I didnt spot any gargoyles though !!
4. Central Methodist Church
Constructed by the Methodist mission in Lalbagh, this was the ‘Indian’ Church made in 1869 for the ‘native’ Indian Christian population. Father Joel T. Janvier was the first pastor at the Church. The small white modest Church, is known for its beautiful Choir.
The present pastor is a soft spoken gentleman who talked about the choir with well deserved pride. As he recalled, the Church needed a piano and much effort was made in trying to find the right one for the Church. The cost of the good ones was too high, till his son, a talented musician himself offered to build one. And he did, in three months. The beautiful piano stands proudly in the Church, a labour of love.
5. Lal Bagh English Methodist Church
Not far from the Central Methodist Church, is the ‘English’ Methodist Church in Lalbagh. The website of the Church informs that Rev William Butler, who started Methodism in India, had started English services in Lucknow in 1858. It was in 1875 that the construction of the Church building began and it was dedicated in 1877 by Rev J.H. Thoburn.
Built in the Gothic style of architecture, the elegant white church has a three storeyed pointed tower, and beautiful arched windows.
6. St.Peter’s Railwayman’s Church
Peter’s the Railwayman’s Church was a little difficult to find. The name was intriguing and suggested it had something to do with the Railways. Location mentioned was simply and aptly, Charbagh !! Google maps kept taking me all over but to the place itself. After much digging, I found a clue and glimmer of hope, it was near the NR Indoor Hospital which was a much easier find !!
And thats how I found this quaint red church which was built as the Railwaymen’s church to serve the Anglican protestant community of the area. It is now a part of Churches of North India.
The foundation stone of the Church was laid on 21st March 1914, by the then Bishop of Lucknow George Herbert alongwith
the foundation stone of the beautiful Charbagh Railway station. This is the first church in the city to have the 10 commandents displayed in hindi. It was also the first to have a woman priest presiding over the congregation.
Unfortunately, the church was not open at the time and I missed seeing the inside. However the modest red church, the greenery around and the serenity of the place transported one to another world.
7. Christ church
This magnificient church is unmissable as it stands on the main road leading to Hazratganj. I had often passed it, even noticed it in the night as the colors changed on its beautifully lit spire. Today was the day I decided to explore it, but unfortunately it was closed. Not a man in sight in its vast grounds, it stood quite desolate.
Built in 1860, it is the very first Anglican Church of Northern India (CNI), as per records, and probably ranks third in India built by the British.
The brick and stucco structure, designed by Lt. Swetenham of the Royal Engineers, is built in neo Gothic style with a prominent five storeyed pointed tower and arched Gothic windows.
Waiting for it to open, to explore further.
8. Wesleyan Church.
This pretty church lies not far from the more famous Methodist churches of Lalbagh. Part of the Church of North India, not much literature is found on this Church. Its modest but lovely red building catches the eyes as one passes by. Established in the early 90s, as a plaque on the floor announces, it is well kept and has beautiful flower trees adding to its quaintness. As a service was on when I reached there, could not glean much of its history. Kept it for another time.
9. All Saints Garrison Church
This majestic imposing building is the largest of the churches I have seen in Lucknow. It stands prominently in the Cantonment, on the main roundabout on way to the airport. Nobody can miss the impressive red facade including the massive tower, equally for its grandness as well as its desolateness. Its large compound is overgrown with trees and foliage, the building itself in total disrepair, its alcoves often a shelter for the homeless. The neglect and loneliness hangs in the air.
Built for the British soldiers stationed in the city, its original building was constructed in 1860. It was subsequently expanded to to meet the requirement of the increasing number of soldiers with the present structure designed in 1908 by a british engineer Jones Ransome. The interesting feature of this Church is that it allowed the soldiers to carry their guns inside so as to not be caught unaware, particularly after the Mutiny of 1857 when many soldiers were killed. This is also evident from the pews which have space to hold guns.
The Churches that I have seen and listed here are just a selected few. There is so much more in the intertwined histories to see, experience and learn.
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