Musabagh
Lucknow, the fascinating city of the nawabs, tracing a history from Persia to connections so European, host to the Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb, witness to the great mutiny of 1857, an important participant of the freedom struggle, in short a delight of a history buff. Like they say, so much more of this city is hidden as that which is known. Take a short drive in the city from the Cantt to the Chowk and one can pass by so much of history without even realising. Close your eyes, take a deep breath and you would perhaps be able to visualise the grandeur of this city that was once called the Constantinople of India.
Every visit to Lucknow reveaIs something more as if the city is challenging us with its mysteries. It was in one of my many such trips to Lucknow, that a passing mention of Musabagh and the cigarette smoking grave of Captan Sahib, set me on the trail to find it. Surprisingly not many people had heard of it, maybe because much in Lucknow pales before the majestic Imambaras and the Rumi Darwaza which have become the identity of the city. As I said, there are many beautiful secrets the bylanes of this city hide but Musa bagh remains a secret even though laid out amongst open fields.
Located in the west end of the city, on its outskirts, off the main Hardoi Road, the Musa bagh ruins are testament to the grandeur of the place in its prime. Much of the period buildings in Lucknow are built in the Indo European style of architecture made popular by the Frenchman Claude Martin, and so is Musa Bagh. This was the last bastion of the great mutiny of 1857, being the final stronghold of Begum Hazrat Mahal in 1858. Oddly enough it was also one of the places which triggered the struggle against the British in 1857.
Musa Bagh, as the name suggests, was a garden complex, originally laid out by Nawab Asaf -ud -daulah, with a Kothi added subsequently around 1803, by the fifth Nawab of Awadh, Nawab Saadat Ali Khan. Located close to the river Gomti which in those times flowed near, it was built as a country retreat. As many other buildings of the time, it served as a place of pleasure and games of wild beast fights for the royal guests which included Europeans. As per some accounts it derived its name from a corruption of the word ‘Monsieur’ as in Monsieur’s garden, but that remains in the realm of speculation.
The place was offered later by the Nawabs to the British residents for their Residency, which was not accepted. However, the British did station the 7th Oudh Irregular Cavalry there. In 1857, it was the Indian soldiers of this Cavalry who refused to bite the newly issued cartridge greased with the forbidden fat, and revolted. Musa bagh saw action in 1858 when Begum Hazrat Mahal with her son held it with some nine thousand men commanded by prominent leaders, to take on the British. They however, did not succeed and the British left the place in ruins.
Today the remnants of the grand Kothi stand spectacular on a high ground in a large open area with green fields all around, though urbanisation is slowly creeping nearer as colonies develop not too far. Old timers tell that not long back , the place was serene in its beauty, lying among open fields, accessible only by foot, so remote was the place. But unfortunately, as is the fate of all our heritage monuments, this too shall fall to urbanisation if not protected in right earnest.
The lakhauri brick, lime plastered structure has a semi circular portico and a short flight of stairs leading to the entrance . There are roofless halls and a large open quadrangle laid out in the center of the structure. Majestic double columns stand precariously on the upper landing, which may have led to rooms and corridors. At each corner of the large quadrangle, are small circular chambers with winding stairs. Interestingly in the centre of it, is a small but deep well, perhaps dug for the water needs of the cavalry. Beautiful arches and domes decorated with engraved floral patterns and cords make up the rest of the ruins of this once grand kothi. Traces of interior decoration can be seen in the weather beaten stucco work with faded colouring showing through.
One can just imagine British gentlemen in their uniforms and their ladies in full skirts and parasoles sweeping their way up the grand stairs to participate in the festivities planned by the Nawab, awed with the magnificence of the place.
Looking at the battle scarred walls, one can also visualize the anxiousness of the weary battle worn mutineers commandered by their Begum pitching in for the last ditch fight with their enemy. Guns and mortar shattering the calm of the place. The British troop led by Colin Campbell charging against the beleagured but defiant Indians, and finally overpowering them.
A solitary grave at the site is the resting place of a British officer, Captain F. Wale who raised and commanded the 1st Sikh Irregular Cavalry and who was killed in action in Lucknow on 21st March ,1858. The plaque on the simple grave announces the same. It seems that the good Captain enjoyed his drinks and cigarettes. According to locals, a Britisher is often seen smoking a cigarette in wee hours in the vicinity of the grave, the soul perhaps looking for more. This has led to the grave being called as the Kaptan Baba ki Mazaar or the Cigarette wale Baba ki Mazaar. It has turned into a little shrine where people pray and offer cigarettes on their wishes coming true. The cigarette is lit and stuck in the gravestone and lo and behold smoke starts bellowing as if someone is giving it a good puff ! Nobody is certain how this tradition evolved, but there are no answers for faith.
As one leaves the place, the Musa Bagh walls stand silhouetted in the setting sun, perhaps remembering the pleasurable evenings spent by the Nawabs in this serene beautiful place near the river , and the violence with which the era ended. The ruins stand there witness to all.
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